LATIMER ROAD, LADBROKE GROVE, WESTBOURNE PARK Hammersmith & City Line

Past squalor, present splendour - and Portobello Road Market

Exit left from Latimer Road Tube into Bramley Road. Follow this (it becomes St. Ann’s Road) until Stoneleigh Place, then dog-leg right into Mary Place. At Walmer Road walk right (passing Avondale Park) until you see steps to a cut-through and a 1970’s private development called Hippodrome Mews. Turn into the mews for a big surprise, for walking on the cobbles will shortly bring you to an old bottle kiln* used for firing tiles, drainpipes etc.



Return to Walmer Road for a view of the other side of the kiln and a plaque explaining that in the nineteenth century potteries and brickfields were to be found round here. In the 1840’s the housing and general squalor of the area was notorious. The clay that was so useful to the pottery industry unfortunately contributed to public health problems by preventing the waste produced by the thousands of pigs raised in the area from draining away properly. The district became known as the Potteries and Piggeries. Not surprisingly the result of the poor or non-existent sanitation was a high death rate from outbreaks of cholera and typhoid. An excellent description of the miserable conditions in which people lived – and died - can be found at British History on Line.

The plaque on the kiln also refers to the Hippodrome Racecourse. This ill-fated enterprise was opened in 1837, the track being created round the hill where St. John's Church, Lansdowne Crescent, now stands. The undertaking was beset with problems from the start. The local inhabitants were incensed at the blocking of an important footpath . They
protested by breaking down the fencing and organizing marches which meant meant that police had to be on patrol to keep them away. As if this were not enough, the clay made the going too heavy for the horses and the track closed after only four years. As well as Hippodrome Mews, the names of nearby Hippodrome Place and Pottery Lane recall the extraordinary history of this area.













A left turn into Hippodrome Place brings you to one of the original service roads of the Ladbroke estate. At the corner of Clarenden Cross and Portland Road is a shop at present selling terracotta pots. It is lucky in its inheritance of huge oil jars high on the walls that were part of the original store’s advertising. Further on is a large over-modernized brick construction, the Clarendon Works, formerly a builder’s warehouse.A dog-leg crossing of the road to the left will bring you to Ladbrook Rise and the estate proper.

Here is a very different world. You are now surrounded by enormous early Victorian white stucco houses. A glance at a map shows quite clearly that development followed the curve of the Hippodrome track. Cross Lansdowne Road and wander round the area a little. You will soon discover that many of the roads have their own private communal gardens, well screened by mature trees. What is so amazing is that this magnificent development was taking place when a short distance away the slums remained a significant health hazard.

Turn left down Stanley Crescent and at the top go right which will bring you to Ladbroke Gardens. At Kensington Park Road a few steps to the right will take you to the pretty St. Peter's Church (1852). Cross to have a closer look, then go back and turn down Westbourne Grove. Soon you are in the area of Portobello Market – another world again!

PORTOBELLO ROAD MARKET Chaotically crowded on Saturdays for the antiques market, but good fun. Wonderful for all kinds of food during the week (see link for opening times, etc.).
The Westbourne Grove end is for cool teenagers, going south you get the fruit, veg and various takeaway/delicatessen stalls. Antiques are at the Nottinghill Gate end - some newer than others.

Don't miss the little Electric Cinema at No. 191. Having been built in 1910-11 it's one of the oldest surviving picture houses in the country.

Depending which end of the road you finish at you can go home via either the Tube station at Notting Hill Gate (a pleasant walk with pretty cottages) or Ladbroke Grove (turn left into Lancaster Road). For Westbourne Park Tube (a less attractive option) turn right into Lancaster Road, then left (Lukes Road), right again at Tavistock Road and the Tube station is on the left at the T junction.

*For a description of how a bottle kiln works, click here

MAP

Latimer Road is just one walk from the many to be found at London Tube Rambles. There are architectural gems, beautiful country views, historic places and whacky buildings to be found, even in the most unpromising areas covered by the Greater London Underground stations. Usually the places listed are within a mile of the Tube - often only five minutes walk away. If you reached this as an individual page via a search engine, you might like to go to www.londontuberambles.co.uk to see the other destinations explored . You'll be amazed at what's out there!

© DR2007