PLAISTOW District Line and Hammersmith & City Line
I couldn’t leave Plaistow out, though it won’t appeal to everyone. It’s the East London Cemetery that is the attraction. Privately owned, it was opened in 1877 and is well worth a visit for anyone depressed by the reported failure of the family. No pompous monuments here. Even the grandest (Vassallo family) is still a personal memorial, having a life-size statue of Mother. This sets the tone for the rest of the burial ground, as there is a vast array of lavish granite memorials in the shape of archways, open doors, broken hearts etc. - somewhat surprising in this far from affluent area. You will find the Vassallo statue by walking straight ahead from the entrance towards the War memorial - itself interesting as it has iron replicas of weapons and a soldier's cap instead of the more usual stone carvings. On the way to the memorial you will see some more objects not normally found in a cemetery - a dartboard (on the left-hand side) and football (right hand side).
Continue to the chapels and turn left then right along the first small path. At the end, on a raised grassy bank is a part of the cemetery favoured by the local Chinese community. Oranges can be seen on many of the graves, having been left as ceremonial offerings.
If you turn to the right and go along the perimeter path you will discover the resting place of the victims of a disaster that occurred in 1898 at the launching of HMS Albion when a temporary bridge collapsed, killing 38 people. Many of these are interred in a common grave marked by a large anchor. The superstitious may be interested to know that the champagne bottle, traditionally smashed against a ship’s hull at the naming/launching ceremony, did not on this occasion break. The ship had been built at The Thames Ironworks, which those up in football history will know was the original name of West Ham United.
The large rose garden is colourful at any time of year, since many bushes are permanently decorated with artificial flowers, flags, windchimes and toys. However, the really spectacular displays are the floral tributes from recent funerals laid out near the chapel. These frequently include wreaths in the shape of footballs in West Ham United colours, playing cards and snooker tables. East Enders know how to organize a good send-off!
The Tube station itself is interesting, having a Italianate exterior of 1905. The station was opened in 1858 and originally served the London, Tilbury and Southend Railway. (LTSR) The District Line service began in 1902, the Hammersmith & City (then the Metropolitan Line) followed in 1936.
Directions: From the Tube it take just over ten minutes to get to the cemetery. When you leave the station turn right (Plaistow Road), then right again into Upper Road. Cross Helena Road and Florence Road. As you walk towards some trees you will see a sign for the Greenway on an embankment beneath which is the Northern Outfall Sewer (see the entry for Bow Road). Continue along Upper Road and you will see the cemetery on your right. At Grange Road turn right. The entrance is about a hundred meters further on.
Plaistow is just one walk from the many to be found at London Tube Rambles. There are architectural gems, beautiful country views, historic places and whacky buildings to be found, even in the most unpromising areas covered by the Greater London Underground stations. Usually the places listed are within a mile of the Tube - often only five minutes walk away. If you reached this as an individual page via a search engine, you might like to go to www.londontuberambles.co.uk to see the other destinations explored . You'll be amazed at what's out there!
© DR2008