A river walk and steam museum
To get to the river, which takes just over ten minutes, leave the Tube station by the right hand exit and go down an alleyway by the side of the car park. At the top turn right into Wellesley Road. Go under the A4 road bridge. Cross to Brooks Road and follow this downwards over Oxford Road South. Take the bridge* over the railway line and turn left down the continuation of Brooks Road, now a lane. Pass the group of Strand on the Green schools. At Thames Road cross over and go left. Almost immediately go down Ship Alley and you will be at the river.
This is a pleasant walk with some pretty houses and several quaint old pubs. Strand on the Green was once a fishing settlement, and people still wait patiently with rod on the beach below the path – though I imagine the cormorants that live round here don’t leave much to be caught. Continue towards Kew Bridge until the path ends, then cross over to have a look at the long run of pedimented buildings. Rather surprisingly these were once a laundry, the first set was built in 1905, the second in 1914. Now offices. At the end of the block go right to find a street with delightful cottages on one side. The less said about what has been allowed to happen on the other side at such a sensitive site the better. I have no objection to modern building if it is interesting, but to have plonked down a lot of bog standard 1960’s maisonettes here is, to put it politely, a missed opportunity. It is particularly sad given the thoughtful rebuilding of war-damaged property in the area.
Continue round the block and you will see Kew Bridge and the magnificent chimney (over 60 metres high) of the Kew Bridge Steam Museum (admission charge). Head towards this, carefully negotiating the various pedestrian crossings that take you over the bridge, and turn down
Green Dragon Lan
e. The museum buildings are of a restrained Italianate design in golden stock brick. They were originally erected in the nineteenth century in order to house the pumps for London’s water supply and now contain the world’s largest collection of pumping engines, with plenty of activities for children. The museum has that pleasant air of informality that characterizes places with volunteer enthusiasts. The first staff member I met was a lady who was carrying a bunch of carrots and a lettuce which she joked had been ‘grown at Kew’ - by which she meant the little museum gardens created on an embankment. (Why do wild flowers in my garden merely look like laziness, while those at the museum make a proper little ‘meadow’?) Steam usually only happens at weekends and Bank Holidays (see above link) so you might like to organize your visit to coincide with one of these demonstrations.After all this, return to the river path and this time continue walking beyond Ship Alley, past the wooded Oliver’s Island (once a barge factory) towards an iron lattice railway bridge. On the way you will pass the Hopkin Morris almshouses, rebuilt 1933, with several tablets let into the old brick wall explaining the various renovations. I particularly liked the 1974 one done in old style by Hounslow Council. The German born artist, Johann Zoffany, famous for his paintings of English theatrical scenes, lived in one of the elegant terrace houses (no. 65, with blue plaque). This section of the path ends by Strand on the Green House (rebuilt 1788), a lovely building with bow windows on two storeys that must be wonderful for river views. Follow the road round to the left to find yourself back in Thames Road. Now you can see the backs of some of the intriguing buildings you have just passed. Don’t miss Post Office Alley - its whitewashed walls are reminiscent of a Cornish village. The alley's name dates back to the time when no. 29 was a Post Office. The river can be glimpsed through a ‘tunnel’ that leads back to where you have just walked.
Just one more detail to send you on your way – have a look at the original tiles in the porches of nos. 70-76 Thames Road.
Note: for Gunnersbury House and Park please refer to the entry for ACTON TOWN
*Unsuitable for buggies or wheelchairs, as it does not have a slope. If you have access problems you can continue up Wellesley Road towards Kew Bridge instead of walking down Brooks Road. There are slopes leading to the riverside walk. Getting to the Steam Museum via Kew Bridge might be a bit hazardous, however, as slow-moving traffic on this arterial road often blocks the crossings.
MAP
Gunnersbury is just one walk from the many to be found at London Tube Rambles. There are architectural gems, beautiful country views, historic places and whacky buildings to be found, even in the most unpromising areas covered by the Greater London Underground stations. Usually the places listed are within a mile of the Tube - often only five minutes walk away. If you reached this as an individual page via a search engine, you might like to go to www.londontuberambles.co.uk to see the other destinations explored . You'll be amazed at what's out there!
© DR2007