KEW GARDENS District Line
Although most people visiting this area make for the Royal Botanic Gardens, there are other (free) things to do. You can walk to Richmond along the Thames Path, have an architectural potter round Kew Green –combine the two.
On leaving the station, turn right through the underpass signed Kew Gardens to emerge in a pleasant little square, the station having a mini ‘hot-house’ cafĂ© building attached. Walk straight ahead to Lingfield Road and at Kew Road opposite one of the entrances to the Gardens, turn right and follow the wall, crossing at the lights by Kew Gardens Road. Continue left to get to Kew Green (about ten minutes from station) with interesting old houses to enjoy along the way).
KEW GREEN This is in two sections – two grassy areas surrounded by beautiful houses. Exploring the Southwestern half first, go towards the entrance to the Royal Botanic Gardens. On the way you will pass some fine buildings, mostly Georgian. The house with the covered way (a 19th century addition) that stretches right to the pavement belonged to the Earl of Bute, who was Prime Minister for a short time. He was a keen botanist and had a private gate into the grounds of Kew Palace enabling him to help Prince Augusta in her development of Kew Gardens. To the right of the wrought iron gates of Kew is the impressive Herbariam complex which houses thousands of dried specimens to help identify plants and funghi. Crossing the narrow Ferry Lane continue past more stately 18th century houses. Cross over the main road to get to the beginning of the second section of the Green.
The architecture may be less grand, but low-lying Waterloo Place (1816) is a delight and there are little alleyways with pretty cottages to explore. At the East end is a large pond surrounded by bullrushes. Continue past this back towards Kew Road and go back to see the 18th century brick-built church, St Anne’s . The tomb of Thomas Gainsborough, surrounded by low railings, is on the south side of the church. Another painter, Johann Zoffany who lived at Strand on the Green, just over the bridge, is also buried here.
THAMES PATH Now cross the Green at the West end of St Annes, taking the path that runs diagonally to Ferry Lane . Go down this and after a few minutes you will be at the river. Follow the Thames Path sign to the left. At first you are walking opposite Brentford Ait (‘ait’ =small island) where for centuries osier willows were cultivated for basket-making. Next come Lots Ait. These islets are home to a variety of river birds and you will almost certainly see herons flying pterodactyl-like over the water.
After five minutes walk comes the bright red Kew Palace, looking remarkably like an antique dolls’ house. At this point you can see quite a bit of the Royal Botanic Gardens over the wall that runs by the river. The River Brent joins the Thames near here where it has a role as part of the Grand Union Canal. From the mid 19th century it was an important transport link with the Thames for the distribution of cargoes such as hay for London’s working horses, market-garden produce, coal and lime. By the 1960’s all this had changed and now a small marina and modern waterside development occupy the area where wharves, warehouses and a railway freight terminus were once a hive of commercial activity. The wall of Kew Gardens continues on your left.
About twenty minutes slow amble later you will see Syon House (Duke of Northumberland) across the water. You can just make out the huge lion atop the clock-tower and imagine it being towed by barge from another house belonging to the Duke in the Strand. The stone facing is Georgian, but the building actually dates from the 16th century. Cattle roam the tidal meadow in front of the mansion adding to the atmosphere of rural tranquility. A little further on in the park is a delicious pink and white pavilion (1803). The way becomes increasingly countrified, the trees arching overhead to form a green ‘tunnel’.
Now comes a surprise – a Meridian line – and we’re not in Greenwich! George III commissioned an observatory to be built to see the transit of Venus in 1769. He had it lined up with three obelisks along his personal Meridian. The observatory set the official time for London throughout the 1770’s ( a standard national time was not necessary until the coming of the railways). If you look between the modern steel markers by the path you will be able to line up the observatory and one of the obelisks. There is another marker further along the path at Richmond.
After Syon Park and on the same side of the river comes what seems like a small riverside village – this is in fact Isleworth. The most obvious building, the stone church, was rebuilt in the1960’s (Michael Blee) after fire damage in 1943. Pevsner describes the large red brick addition as ‘an uncompromisingly original 20th century statement’. More of a shout, really.
Nearly at the end of our route the vista on the left opens out and we have reached the second obelisk post and the vast green space of the Old Deer Park. This is part of the large royal estate that included what is now the Royal Botanic Gardens area. Still Crown property, much of it is open to the public. Finally, the fascinating Richmond Lock, (1894) the last one downstream. Techno- buffs will enjoy going on to the elegant bridge and seeing the 32 ton barrages that are lowered into place between the arches as the tide begins to ebb. Their purpose is to maintain a regular depth of water between here and Teddington Lock whatever the state of the tide. Up to 1938 there was a fee to use the lock - hence the funny little railway-style ticket office. (The large Palladian villa on the left is Asgill House, summer residence of Sir Charles Asgill, Lord Mayor of London 1761-2.)
Return to the towpath and go up to the next river crossing, Twickenham Bridge. Walk over this (splendid view of Richmond from the middle) and continue straight ahead for about ten minutes down The Avenue (horridly noisy after the quiet river) until the roundabout. Turn left and you will soon be able to cross over to St. Margarets railway station. From here you can take a train to Waterloo, or it may be more convenient to go to Richmond (MAP) and re-join the Tube network there.
KEW GARDENS AREA MAP
Access note. The Thames path is reasonably OK for wheels, being mainly a level gravel/concrete path. On balance, I wouldn’t recommend wheelchair users to attempt the whole route. It should be borne in mind that once you’re on this path and past Kew Gardens, there is no way off the path until Richmond. It is quite narrow in places and although the many cyclists who use the path are a courteous bunch, almost invariably ringing their bells to warn of their approach, please be careful especially if you have children with you. At the end of the walk those with buggies might try an different route into Richmond to find alternative transport links because of the steps at Twickenham Bridge.
Kew Gardens is just one walk from the many to be found at London Tube Rambles. There are architectural gems, beautiful country views, historic places and whacky buildings to be found, even in the most unpromising areas covered by the Greater London Underground stations. Usually the places listed are within a mile of the Tube - often only five minutes walk away. If you reached this as an individual page via a search engine, you might like to go to www.londontuberambles.co.uk to see the other destinations explored . You'll be amazed at what's out there!
© DR2007