A lot of lions and a gasworks – plus a river panorama. Quite a bit of walking – but plenty to discover along the way. . .
Turn right out of station down Parsons Green, then right again at the White Horse pub. This is in two parts, first a splendid corner site, painted white, then a tall terracotta building with a stone horse which instead of being exposed to the elements as usual with pub animals, is cosily sheltered under an elegant canopy. (The smoke in the photo comes from a large barbeque organised by the pub on the Green).
The history of the White Horse is closely tied up with the history of Parsons Green itself - the pub’s website makes entertaining reading. Lady Margaret School for girls , founded in 1917, is to be found in the collection of stately eighteenth century houses a little further on. After having had a look at this interesting set of buildings, retrace your steps and this time turn left to walk round the other side of the square to St. Dionis Road where there are some very basic cottages (c1840) which open directly on to the street, no front gardens at all. Note the iron boot-scrapers by each one, a reminder that produce for the London market was grown in the area until the mid nineteenth century. Return, and continue going round the square to get to the terrace of eighteenth-century houses on the south side. Continue past these, walking east down the New King’s Road. Soon there is a parade of shops and cafes. You may notice some beige terracotta* lions perched on the gables. These were the ‘signature’ of J.Nichols, a local builder who from the 1890’s developed the estate in the grounds of Peterborough House, demolished at the turn of the century. More lions later . . . Next comes Eel Brook Common where Fulham FC sometimes played while still an amateur side. Go past this and cross the road at the second set of traffic lights. Turn down Bagley Lane and at the bend is Harwood Terrace.
Walk down this street and continue to Michael Road where there is a bizarre green building, the former Gasworks Restaurant, whose owners seem to have raided every antique shop in the area for its décor. Next door are the modest premises of the Art Bronze Works, originally established in 1922 in the Fulham Road. The buildings may be humble, but the foundry’s history is distinguished, many bronzes by famous artists having been cast on this site since 1956. Further down on the right at Sands End is the old gas works. This was opened by the Imperial Gas Company in 1824 to provide lighting for the Hammersmith and Fulham area. It is now a business park, but with many of its old buildings and gas holders have been preserved. Return to Harwood Terrace and just after the Fulham Tup pub go down an alley to the left.
This comes out at Imperial Square (once the site of market gardens). This does not live up to its grand name, being a cluster of cottages in grey Gault brick built for the gas workers and company pensioners. Although very plain, the cottages are quite pretty with their neat front gardens and white wicket fences. The bricked-over centre is rather bare, but the concept is historically correct, as there never was a green, the central area having originally been paved with blue industrial bricks This reflected the utilitarian nature of the square. There was no question of escaping from the work environment - or the foul smell - as the gas holders dominated the area.[ If gasworks are your thing you might like to turn right out of the square in order to get to Imperial Road. Walk by the long wall that marks the boundary of the gasworks until you reach a pedestrian crossing. Going over the road here will give you a better view of the splendid No. 7 gasholder (1880).]
Return to Michael Road, pass the new warehouses, turn left down Cambria Street then right along the King’s Road. Outside the parade of shops on the way to Lots Road there is an unusual seat cast in bronze in the shape of a huge book secured to the pavement by a large ball and chain. There’s a similar one in the British Library. Fun, but not comfortable. Go over the railway bridge to find Lots Road on the right. The very green building on the corner is the first of many antique/furniture shops round here and has a small deco clock perched on the roof. Go down Lots Road.
Soon two chimneys announce the famous Lots Road power station. Techno-buffs may get all misty-eyed at this point , as this vast sparely-decorated building is one of the icons of the London Underground. Completed in 1905 for the Metropolitan District Electric Traction Company, the coal-fired plant supplied power to the Metropolitan District Railway (now District/Circle Line) that had previously been hauled by steam. In the 1960’s it was converted to burning oil and lost two of its original four chimney stacks. Another modernisation in the 1970’s allowed it to run on North Sea gas. Lots Road continued to operate until 2002 when it was finally shut down, the electricity for London Underground being taken from the National Grid. There are plans for the re-development of the site, but happily this impressive and historic building is safe from the threat of demolition and instead will become a ‘unique mixed-use community development’ for use by the inhabitants of the 800 or so new apartments planned for the area. For more details you might like to visit the architects’ site For an extremely detailed and technical explanation of the power station’s past glory click here.
Now for the river. Where Lots Road turns to the left, go straight ahead over a little bridge, following the sign for Chelsea Harbour. The buildings surrounding the marina, created in the late 1980’s from a disused coal wharf, are rather disappointing, with the notable exception of the impressive Wyndham Hotel (Triad Architects) whose harbour frontage has balcony railings reminiscent of those round an ocean liner’s deck. I also liked the top bay windows which echo a ship’s lights. Go through the harbour and down to the Thames for a panoramic river view. Perhaps distance lends enchantment, but the architecture on the South bank of the river does seem a bit more exciting than much of the stuff that is being put up at a fair rate of knots on the north bank.
The little Georgian church opposite is St. Mary’s, Battersea – a brave survivor! Next comes a surprise – the jetty to the west of the church is, amazingly, London’s main heliport. It was not until I actually saw a helicopter land (look closely at the photo) that I really believed it, as the pad sits on a set of wooden piles driven into the riverbed – technology that was already centuries old in Dickens’ time! After enjoying the view, continue down the Thames Path to the west, wandering past the apartment blocks under construction. At the end of the railings that mark the boundary of Imperial Wharf turn away from the river and walk through the landscaped gardens of the1990’s brick flats. When you reach the tarmac road turn left and then cross to go right into Watermead Lane. This takes you to Townmead Road. Go left here and then right up Kilkie Street, dog-leg left/right over Stephendale Road to Hazelbury Road which brings you to Wandsworth Bridge Road. It’s best to use one of the crossings to get to Studdridge Street almost opposite, as this is a busy road. All this sounds like a long trek, but it’s only about ten minutes to the main road from the river.
Once in Studdridge Street you will meet Mr. Nichols’ lions again. Row upon row of houses guarded by lions perched incongruously on the gables of houses that already have plenty of other moulded decoration. Originally the lions would not have been painted white so perhaps they were less obvious when new. Anyone with obsessive counting disorder should certainly not live round here! To escape, walk down Quarrenden (fourth turning on the right) then cross New King’s Road and walk left towards Parsons Green and back to the Tube station.Photos
St. Mary's, Battersea: gasholder, Imperial Road
White Horse pub:houses Parsons Green
Michael Road
Imperial Square cottages
Lots Road power station
Chelsea Harbour: London Heliport
Lions!
MAP
© DR2007
*Probably made from pale London Clay.
Parsons Green is just one walk from the many to be found at London Tube Rambles. There are architectural gems, beautiful country views, historic places and whacky buildings to be found, even in the most unpromising areas covered by the Greater London Underground stations. Usually the places listed are within a mile of the Tube - often only five minutes walk away. If you reached this as an individual page via a search engine, you might like to go to www.londontuberambles.co.uk to see the other destinations explored . You'll be amazed at what's out there!