UXBRIDGE (Metropolitan and District) a LONDON TUBE RAMBLES short walk round Uxbridge (can be extended to follow the London Loop for 4 miles along the Grand Union canal to Harefield)
Uxbridge
is a thriving town with a mixture of old
buildings and large shiny office blocks. It
has been a commercial centre since the
twelfth century. Until Victorian times the main wealth of the
town came from the
corn market and the mills powered by the rivers Fray and Colne. The
improved transport link provided by the construction of the Middlesex
section of the Grand Union Canal in 1796 also increased the town’s
prosperity. Gradually milling ceased to be the main business and the
areas previously concerned with growing corn began to be used for
market-gardening, brick-making and hay production. Even today there is farmland just beyond the town centre, to the west of the rivers.
The Tube station itself is a good place to start the Uxbridge trail. When you reach the large ticket hall look up to see a colourful stained glass window
containing elements from the arms of Middlesex and Buckinghamshire
(Uxbridge lies on the border between the two counties). A
1930’s working destination board, complete with clock, still stands
at the entrance to the platforms. The station was designed by Charles Holden in
1938 and because it is a terminus is a bit grander than
most. Directly over the road is the colonnaded Market Hall
(1789). Its open trading space has now been filled in with
glazed shop-fronts. By the eighteenth century commerce was
already dictating the shape of the town. The market hall we
see today was built to replace the one demolished in 1785 when the
High Street was widened to solve the traffic problems caused by the
great number of coaches using Uxbridge as a staging post. Now
much of the High Street has been pedestrianised and is an excellent
shopping centre with two shopping malls, the Chimes (to the left of
the station) and the less formal Pavilions, which has separate stalls
and an internal lift shaft fancifully disguised as a
Venetian palazzo.
Section one: To discover more of old Uxbridge, turn right from the Tube and walk along the High Street, passing The Pavilions. The imposing Old Bank House at No. 142 is dated 1791. This refers not to
the building itself but to the foundation of the Uxbridge Old Bank.
(The original premises of the same name are further down the High
Street.) Soon after going past an eighteenth-century house with
projecting white windows (No. 132) you will come upon one of the many
Uxbridge ‘yards’. Look out for more of
these on your way round. Beasley’s Yard come next. As can be seen from a memorial stone let into the wall on the left, this was named after the Rev Thomas Ebenezer Beasley 1763-1824. In the yard itself is Watts Hall, formerly the Old Meeting House, a nonconformist church. Originally erected in 1716, it was rebuilt in 1883. Return to the High Street. No.120 has
two delicately carved porches and next door is a
four-hundred-year-old cottage currently the Nonna Rosa
restaurant. Hill House (No. 118) is a large Georgian House
occupied by an estate agent. Cross Harefield Road and continue to a little bridge (Fray’s River), look to the left for Fountains Flour Mill, now a youth centre.
Opposite the mill, across a large road junction, you can
see the Crown and Treaty. This building was part of Place House
which in 1645 was a meeting place for Royalists and
Parliamentarians to forge a treaty (unsuccessful) to end the Civil War. By
1816 the house had become a pub. Cross Braybourne Close and shortly after that Sanderson Road to get to Oxford Road. Soon you will see the 1991 Parexel offices in art deco liner style at the bridge over the Grand Union Canal and the River Colne.
Walk across the bridge as far as Willow Avenue (temporarily ignoring the inviting canal side pub). The flour mill that once stood here was called Kings Mill - a popular brand of bread is named after it. Now most of the modern buildings have been demolished and the site redeveloped as housing. You can still see the mill race on the left, though a concierge will want to know your business if you try to enter the private area of the complex. He sits in a small glazed hut that was originally the weighbridge office when it was situated further along the yard. Return to Oxford Road to reach the Swan and Bottle pub passed earlier. It dates back to the seventeenth century and owes its strange name to the fact that there were two pubs here – the Olde Swan and the Leather Bottle. Should you wish to do a canal trek, go through the pub car park and down a slope to the waterside. At Uxbridge Lock cross over the hump-backed bridge and follow the towpath. In Harefield (about 4 miles) there are buses back to Uxbridge or other Tube stations. (See note below.) To skip the walk, take the route below to continue exploring the town.
Section Two
Retrace your steps as far as the Market Hall. Here turn right for the medieval St.Margaret’s church, which has become squashed into a corner site at Windsor Street as the town has grown. Although the west end has been modernized to act as a coffee shop, the rest of the church is intact, with a fine fifteenth-century hammer beam roof in the nave. On the north side look for the tomb of one Dame Leonora Bennet (d1638) which has an unusually gruesome depiction of what might be found inside a charnel house. On leaving the church, turn left . The Town Pump is nearby. Over the road is the Queen’s Head (1544). The board outside makes fascinating reading. It is thought that at one time the pub may have been the rectory, as there is an underground passage which leads to the church. The Fig Tree wine bar housed the Police Station and was previously known as The Old Bill. Seems a shame to change such a good and historically relevant name. The street is full of attractive small-scale shops and at No.46 is another ‘yard’ - have a look at the intriguing wooden structure occupied by a mini cab firm.
At the end of Windsor Street is a free-standing arch which leads into Lynch Green. To get to it, cross at the lights - be careful, they can be confusing. This green was waste ground and in 1555 several Protestant Martyrs were burnt here for their beliefs. In 1576 the land was given by the Lord of the Manor (The Earl of Derby) to the people of Uxbridge for a burial ground. From the inscription on the arch you will learn that it continued to be used for this purpose until 1855. It is now a shady park. Go back up Windsor Street, but before catching your train home wander through the colonnade of the Market Hall. As you reach the end you will catch a glimpse of a large white building (c1850) with a balustrade on the roof. Now owned by a bank, it was for many years the premises of a corn dealer.Have a closer look and you will spot an unusually
handsome decoration on the corner and quaint figures on the window
cornices. These were added when the frontage was remodelled in the
1920’s.
Beyond this is one of the traditional coaching inns of old Uxbridge, The Three Tuns, which still advertises its beer by displaying three large barrels or ‘tuns’. A few steps away is the former Kings Arms where the Licensing Court used to meet. Parts of both these buildings date back to at least the sixteenth century. Those wishing to delve more deeply into the fascinating history of the town might like to visit the website British History On Line.
Canal Walk
Beyond this is one of the traditional coaching inns of old Uxbridge, The Three Tuns, which still advertises its beer by displaying three large barrels or ‘tuns’. A few steps away is the former Kings Arms where the Licensing Court used to meet. Parts of both these buildings date back to at least the sixteenth century. Those wishing to delve more deeply into the fascinating history of the town might like to visit the website British History On Line.
Canal Walk
My town trail is planned as a circular route, so you might miss out if not returning to Uxbridge after doing the long canal walk. To avoid this, instead of going past The Pavilions after leaving the Tube, turn left towards the church in Windsor Street and follow section two of the above route before proceeding down the High Street to get to the canal.
Photos: (Click to enlarge)
Market Hall/Grand Union Canal
Station clock
Watts
Hall/Hill House
Fountain Mill/Crown
&Treaty pub
River
Colne/Swan & Bottle pub
Old Mill House
St.
Margaret's church/Queen's Head pub
Tomb of Dame Leonora Bennet
Tomb of Dame Leonora Bennet
Cab
office, Windsor Street
The
Three Tuns pub
Uxbridge is
just one route from the many to be found at London Tube Rambles. There
are architectural gems, beautiful country views, historic places and
quirky buildings even in the most unpromising areas covered by the outer
London Underground stations. Usually the discoveries are within a mile
of the Tube - often only five minutes walk away. If you reached this as
an individual page via a search engine, you might like to click on the
above link to see the other destinations explored. You'll be amazed at what's out there!
© DR